brock_lee t1_jaf2djh wrote

I have been at this place for four months. I have no idea who the CEO is, so I just googled it. Never heard of him. There are, however, 40,000 employees of this company.

I honestly don't even know what most of this company does. I just have my tiny little project which is a drop in the vast bucket. So, I would not even know what to say to the CEO.


brock_lee t1_jacnln0 wrote

Yeah I think the electrician is in order. It kind of looks like there's two neutral wires on the outlet and then they connected a hot wire and a neutral wire somewhere, so when you plug in the tester it actually is completing the circuit which is really not good.


brock_lee t1_j9ym1e5 wrote

If the door is still sold, you can buy the unit and just replace the slider. Wasteful, but easy. Have you checked to see if the manufacturer just sells the doors without the frame? If the doors are older and were common in your area, you might be able to ask neighbors if anyone replaced one and still has the old one that's functional.

My doors are 42 years old, and when the rollers failed, I asked around on Nextdoor since these same doors were used in every house around here, but never heard from anyone. I finally managed to locate new replacement rollers after a long search.


brock_lee t1_j9kznvv wrote

Yes, I was referring to testing the switched outlet. Sometimes people switch the neutral which can make for unexpected readings on a tester (and should be fixed). But, in the switched on position, if it reads the hot and neutral are reversed, they almost certainly are.


brock_lee t1_j9kw324 wrote

First, is it a 20 amp circuit, or 15? Putting a 15 amp outlet for the fridge on a 20 amp circuit is OK, but putting a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit is not.

Did you test the switched outlet, both outlets, in both the off and on positions, and get different readings on the "reversed" wires at any time? I would definitely shut off the breaker and check (and fix) the wiring on the switched outlet.


brock_lee t1_j89t8t7 wrote

In theory a 12v 100ah battery can supply 10amps for one hour when inverted to 120v. There is, however, some overhead for the inversion and I believe you can't run the battery down to 0%, so it's somewhat less than that hour. If the saw is 15 amps, I would guess it could power it for 30-35 minutes. I would get a cheap charge controller to manage the charging aspect. You can usually put in anywhere from 12 to 24 volts and the controller can convert to what the battery needs and stop when full. These can be $15 on Amazon, and despite what many say, work pretty well.


brock_lee t1_j6pc51y wrote

I've thought it might be amusing to get a vibrating butt plug and wear that. They are never silent and there's no chance the interviewer would not hear it (assuming an in-person interview). If they said anything like "do you hear that buzzing?" I would always deny, deny, deny.

It's not the MOST awkward, but it's something I think about.